Interview: From Latin roots to modern American plates: Chef José Salazar’s bold next chapter

Chef Jose Salazar is no stranger to the Cincinnati food scene. He's long been celebrated for his ability to bring his Latin roots into modern American cuisine, creating dishes that are just as innovative as they are heartfelt. From his early beginnings in Colombia to earning accolades at top restaurants in the United States, Salazar’s journey is a testament to his dedication and culinary skills.

Opening an exciting new chapter, he’s pushing boundaries again, blending tradition with bold, contemporary flavors to craft a dining experience that speaks to his rich heritage while embracing the ever-evolving food scene. Chef Jose Salazar is committed to making an unforgettable dining experience.

GE: It’s holiday season, and being a chef I'm sure you have a lot ahead of you, how do you mentally prepare for holiday feasts? 

Jose Salazar: I’m a huge believer in the power of physical activity and the enormous benefits it has on my mental and emotional health. I also recently started transcendental meditation, which has been such a good way to alleviate daily stressors. I used to scoff at “hippy stuff” like meditation, but it really works, haha.

GE: Favorite dish to make during the holidays? 

Jose Salazar: I absolutely love soups! They are a great vessel for packing in lots of flavor and texture. They can be so versatile, plus they are always a good way to use up trimmings. Typically, my first soup of the season is made on Halloween. We drink it in the driveway while handing out candy to the trick or treaters. 

GE: How has the food scene in Cincinnati shaped your approach to creating menus at your restaurants, and what makes it unique compared to other cities? 

Jose Salazar: Cincinnati was nicknamed Porkopolis because it was once the epicenter of pig production in the U.S. during the early to mid-1800’s. It is still a city that digs its pork. Because of that meat processing history, Cincinnatians are also very keen on offal. As a Chef, it’s wonderful to be able to put things like pig ears, duck hearts and sweetbreads on a menu and have the dining public be excited about it. 

GE: Congratulations on expanding Salazar! When did you realize it was the right moment to start fresh with a larger space? 

Jose Salazar : Thank you! We had considered it for years. We kept searching for just the right location and time, but the pandemic and the economics that surrounded it made it clear that we needed to make the move ASAP.

GE: Your background and restaurant concepts often fuse different cultural elements. How do you balance these influences while keeping the dishes cohesive? 

Jose Salazar: You’re right—it can sometimes feel like a balancing act. My main objective is to have each dish come from a focused point of view and to be sure I have a fundamental understanding of the cuisine I’m pulling from. I feel it’s critical to approach each different cuisine from an angle of respect for its history and culture. I think a menu can be constructed of dishes that are geographically diverse, however fusing multiple cuisines into a single dish can be a risky move. 

GE: You own quite a few restaurants. They all have different styles and menus. How do you approach creating a distinct identity for each one? 

Jose Salazar: The reality is that a restaurant is so much more than the food. Of course, when you sit down and scan a menu, it will tell a bit of the story, but elements like the music, decor, lighting, style of service, plateware, among other things, truly bring the concept to life. It’s like going to a stage production of West Side Story. If the songs are performed beautifully but they don’t take the time to build proper sets or design costumes, your mind wouldn’t be transported to the 1960s streets of Manhattan’s Upper West Side.

GE: I love sweet and fruity wines. Which one from the Safi menu would you recommend? 

Jose Salazar: I really like the Pikasi Barbera rosé. It gives juicy, fresh strawberry. It pairs really well with all the spices in our food too. While I don’t consume alcohol, I do taste (and spit out) all the wines to get an understanding of how they will pair with the dishes on the menu. 

GE: Is there a meal or food experience from your childhood that you try to recreate or pay homage to in your work? 

Jose Salazar: There is! When I was a kid, I’d spend my summers in Colombia. Something that was so simple yet impactful when I first had it was spiraled green mango in a plastic bag, shaken with fresh lime juice and sea salt. The vendor would make this little snack right in front of me, and I’d eat it while walking down the street to whatever my next destination was. It had the same satisfaction for me that maybe a bag of popcorn might for a little kid. At Mita’s, I created a salad inspired by that snack. It’s made with green mango, jicama, frisseé and watercress, dressed in a lime and cilantro vinaigrette. It’s been on our menu since we opened in 2015.

GE: Congratulations on your sobriety. Being surrounded by alcohol every day in your restaurants, how have you managed to maintain it?

Jose Salazar: I get that question a lot, and honestly it has not been that hard. When I decided to stop drinking, I mentally committed to it. I guess I’m lucky that I have the conviction to gear myself to sticking with things I set out to do. That mindset, however, can also lead me to stick with my bad decisions for too long as well.

GE: How do you envision the future of your restaurants, and what legacy do you hope to leave in the modern culinary scene

Jose Salazar: I am not someone who thinks too far ahead or considers the term “legacy”. I make an effort to dedicate my energy to the short term. It’s easy to get so caught up in the future that you neglect the responsibilities you now have. My goal is to do all I can to help them (the restaurants) thrive and grow so that my staff can also continue to grow and take care of themselves and their families.